Green markets

Many of the most beautiful traditional Serbian dishes include cabbage, and many attribute healing effects to it.

A small guide to navigating the green markets

Cabbage, sauerkraut, wedding cabbage, cabbage salad, podvarak, ribanac, Brussels sprouts, sarma, cabbage soup, cabbage diet… Many of the most beautiful traditional Serbian dishes include cabbage, and many attribute healing effects to it. Although a widespread food item, it is known that the king of all cabbages is the famous Futog cabbage. You will recognise it on the green market by its slightly flattened head and its price, which is higher than other varieties. Futog cabbage was one of the first products to receive a designation of geographical origin and represents a real Serbian brand. It has been cultivated in the Futog area in Vojvodina for more than five centuries.

 

Cabbage salad and stewed beans represent a dream combination of traditional Serbian cuisine, and the best beans are the Gradištanac variety. It originates from Veliko Gradište, a small town on the Danube, and today people struggle to preserve this old Serbian variety. It is traditionally prepared in an earthen pot on an open fire. It is most delicious when made in large quantities (army beans) and reheated several times. Everyone agrees that it is best on the third day. Beans masters bring their pots and stoves every year to the Pasuljijada in Veliko Gradište, a competition where you can taste the best beans. In Serbia, every traditional tavern with a good reputation always has beans and you have to try them.

Among ordinary people and as an indispensable spice in gastronomy, it is good to know which is the best.

Believe it or not, the small village of Begeč in Vojvodina is the largest producer of carrots in the Balkans. The famous Begeč carrot became famous for its taste, colour and sweetness, and the Cooperative of Certified Producers was founded in 1927 and still exists today. Begeč vegetable growers are proud of their carrots with a designation of geographical origin and claim that there are no carrots like theirs. It is recognisable even outside the borders of Serbia because 70 percent of the yield is exported. If you know that it is from Begeč, then you can be sure you have the best carrot because, as they say, there is nothing better out there. The rabbits in Begeč are probably happy.

 

The English would say: an apple a day keeps the doctor away. For Serbs, this applies to garlic – a universal remedy for many conditions, prevention against vampires, viruses and bacteria, a natural antibiotic, beneficial for colds and for boosting immunity. This is a magical herb and especially popular in combination with bacon. Due to its popularity, among ordinary people and as an indispensable spice in gastronomy, it is good to know which is the best. Beyond any doubt, that is Vrbica garlic, which is only produced in the village of Vrbica with only 250 inhabitants, almost all of whom are involved in the production of garlic and still cultivate the tradition of manual planting. This garlic has a designation of geographical origin and is characterised by small heads, a hot and sharp taste and an intense smell. It is a faithful companion to many dishes, and roasted peppers with garlic are a real speciality.

In the middle of the summer, red gold arrives from the south-west of Serbia, the Arilje area. Countless rows of crates are filled with raspberries, each of which is hand-picked, and they may travel far out into the world, even to other continents. The whole world knows about the Arilje raspberry, one of the highest quality raspberries on the world market. Almost all the families in the Arilje area are engaged in the lucrative business of growing raspberries. It is famous for its fruits, which are firm and juicy, have a sweet-sour taste, and owe their unique quality to the Arilje cultivation method, which has been used for decades.

The whole world knows about the Arilje raspberry, one of the highest quality raspberries on the world market.

Every household making it has its own nuances of production, which you will find out most easily by buying cheese at the green markets all over Serbia and talking to the producers.

Cheese

The traditional cheese of Serbia is a speciality permeated by the untouched nature of the mountain villages, long tradition and the skill of the masters.

 

Zlatar cheese

The mountainous regions of southwestern Serbia, around the Zlatar mountain, produce one of the most famous cheeses in Serbia, a full-fat cow’s or sheep’s white cheese, possibly with a pale-yellow colour, with a mild smell of milk and an aroma that reveals carefully managed fermentation. Zlatar cheese has a creamy texture and melts in your mouth with every bite, and is also perfect for traditional pastries and other products of this region.

Sjenica cheese

Sjenica cheese is one of the most beautiful little secrets of gastronomic Serbia. This powerful salty white cheese, made from cow’s or sheep’s milk, is produced on the Pešter Plateau, at 1,000 metres above sea level, in an area characterised by long, harsh winters and pure, untouched nature. Every household making it has its own nuances of production, which you will find out most easily by buying cheese at the green markets all over Serbia and talking to the producers.

Stara planina and Pirot kashkaval

Staroplanina sheep’s kashkaval comes from the slopes of Stara planina, and today it is made according to a traditional recipe. The natural environment of Stara planina, with the best quality sweet grass and extremely clean air, is where the famous Pirot kashkaval is made, with an aromatic, strong taste and a firm, uniform structure. In the past, this cheese was mainly made from sheep’s milk, but today people sell kashkaval made from sheep’s and cow’s milk, as well as mixed cheese.

Fortunately, Serbia still has areas with untouched nature that allow different types of medicinal plants and trees to grow, far from pollution.

Sweet and savoury secrets of Serbia

Slatko is a traditional product made of fruit and sugar. When you come to someone’s house, you will usually be served slatko in small bowls, with a glass of cold water, or maybe you have some directly after waking up, with your morning coffee. Specialities include slatko made from Rainier cherries, quinces, figs, wild strawberries, etc. Quinces are also used to make pelte (jelly) and kitnikez (quince cheese with walnuts). Jams and marmalades are another way to preserve the summer fruit flavours during the winter. These are fruits that have been cooked with sugar, but unlike slatko, their texture is thinner and more spreadable, so they are used as fillings for pancakes and other desserts or simply spread on pastries for a sweet breakfast. Jam is obtained from chopped fruits, while marmalade is made from fruit pulp. Favourite flavours include plum, apricot and dog rose.

Ajvar

You know that the winter is over when the last jar of ajvar from the pantry is opened. Ajvar is a speciality made from red peppers, which are roasted over an open fire, then peeled, ground and fried in oil until a thick mass is obtained that is stored in jars. The most famous is Leskovac ajvar, and that is no accident because the best and highest quality peppers grow in the Leskovac region. The best ajvar is made using the large fleshy peppers of the kurtovka variety. One kilogram of ajavar requires about three kilograms of fresh peppers. Aubergines or hot peppers can be added to red peppers ajvar. Variations include pinđur and chopped pepper. There is a national competition in the preparation of ajvar with the cute name Izađi mi na teglu (Go Out and Fill a Jar), which gathers a large number of visitors, lovers of “Serbian caviar”, who can try it on the spot.

Kaymak

Kaymak from Čačak, Užice and Kraljevo are gastronomic specialities that are mainly made using cow’s milk. Some like it strong and salty (aged kaymak) while others like it mild, milky and sweet (young kaymak). It goes best with fried dough-balls (uštipci) or hot bread, but it is also an ingredient in specialities such as pork fillet with kaymak, Karađorđe’s schnitzel and fried dough-balls with pepper and kaymak. Ćevapi are also eaten with kaymak here…

 

Honey

Fortunately, Serbia still has areas with untouched nature that allow different types of medicinal plants and trees to grow, far from pollution. One such area is the Homolje Mountains in the east, which is the origin of the first certified honey from Serbia – Homolje honey. It is obtained from acacia flowers and medicinal plants, the mixing of which in a certain proportion creates the recognisable aroma of this honey. It is characterised by its density, which makes it easy to wind up on a spoon, and its colour varies from light yellow to dark amber. The aroma is floral and if you’ve ever visited this mountain, you’ll carry this aroma with you every time you open a jar of honey from this area.

The largest linden forest in Southeast Europe is located in the Fruška Gora National Park, so it is no surprise that the Fruška Gora linden honey is unique in the world. This honey proudly carries the designation of geographical origin, recognised outside the borders of the country, if it contains a minimum of 60 percent linden pollen in its composition and it is packaged on the territory of Fruška Gora. This honey is bright, almost transparent, with a recognisable and intense linden aroma and a characteristic taste. It belongs among the best quality monofloral honeys from Serbia.

Kačerski honey carries a designation of geographical origin from the Šumadija region. It is obtained from acacia flowers, which makes up its largest part with the addition of linden and medicinal plants. It belongs among the flower honeys and has a mild aroma and a golden yellow colour.

For centuries, the junction of the mighty Danube and the grandiose Đerdap gorge has been known for its diverse plant life that is a source of food for bees. Although honey has been produced in this area for centuries, it is only recently that Đerdap honey has received a designation of geographical origin. Acacia flowers, linden and more than 70 types of plants, some of which grow only in this area, are specific to this honey. The result is an extremely high-quality honey and an authentic product of this region.

Honey production in monastery estates has a long tradition in Serbia. Back in the 19th century, the beekeeping department of the Karlovac Seminary was among the best in the world. Even today, the monks engage in beekeeping and make their own honey, and among the most famous are the honeys from the monasteries of Kovilj, Lelić, Fenek, Duljevo, Bukovo, etc. The Visoki Dečani monastery, whose property is home to the only chestnut forest in Serbia, produces medicinal chestnut honey with a specific and slightly bitter taste.

These small, healthy and tasty berries are best eaten fresh, during a walk, but what remains can be added to cakes, ice creams, healthy juices and many other delicacies.

Sweet culinary magic

When nature is generous, even the hosts and housewives in the kitchen have no trouble making delicious meals out of fruit. The most famous old-fashioned cake is “lenja pita” with apples, which is a real rarity today because making shortcrust pastry with fat requires both time and skill. Apple pastries are easier to find, which will make you remember the flavour of juicy apples in combination with cinnamon, rolled in thin pastry for a long time. Plum pie is said to be the oldest Serbian cake. It is made without a crust, with semolina and flour and is a real speciality that is somewhat forgotten today. In late summer, the slopes of the mountains in western Serbia are dotted with blueberries. These small, healthy and tasty berries are best eaten fresh, during a walk, but what remains can be added to cakes, ice creams, healthy juices and many other delicacies. Producers of artisanal ice creams use blueberries and raspberries to make refined, completely natural flavours of ice cream that fully preserve the wonderful aromas of this berry.

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